Douglas Chen » sportswear

Jil Sander – Simplicity Amplified – Milan s.s 2011

Douglas — Tue, 28 Sep 2010 05:54:05 +0000

Raf Simons is reacting to the recent invasion of designers in his campground of minimalism. He decided to stomp bravely into their turf…. maximalism. Stomp he did but with a clear vision and a very controlled hand. There was no hedonistic excess. His ideas of form and shape were based on modern couture.

Mr. Simons expressed, ” I thought about maximalism - its forms and shapes, with codes that could be brought to Jil Sander in a couture language.”

He played with the basic tee shirt shape on top and volume in controlled forms on the bottom in the form of long skirts. He switched on his presentation with a high voltage color palette. Grass greens, bright pink, flame orange, electric blue, hot purple, sizzle yellow, red-red… he inserted floral prints that looked as if it were bleeding through the fabric and then very bold stripes in colors to underline his measured steps outside of the box of what we have always expected at Jil Sander. He tossed familiar sportswear outerwear pieces like a lightweight parka over his parade of colors in the most unexpected combinations.

This collection is one of Raf Simons strongest for Jil Sander. This is a man who dares and leads fashion. He continues to guide the Jil Sander label forward and is always one of if not the most prophetic in Milan.

Photos: Monica Feudi / gorunway.com / Style.com

Stella McCartney – Opera Garnier

Douglas — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 15:51:11 +0000

Stella McCartney showed her collection on Monday, 8 March. She returned to the magnificent halls of the Paris Opera Garnier where she has shown previously.

This landmark opera house was constructed by Charles Garnier and first opened its doors in 1875. This landmark masterpiece is in the Neo-Baroque style. It was designed as part of the reconstruction of Paris initiated by Napolean III during the Second Empire.

Stella McCartney showed a spare collection in great contrast to the ornately decorated great halls of the Opera Garnier. She, too, has joined the camp of the new minimalism this season. Clean lines, a calm color palette and a good dose of beautiful, accessible, luxe sportswear.

One of the best looks was a simple crew neck sweater paired with narrow wool flannel pants with wide cuff in heathery stone/ camel melange. Yes, shades of Jil Sander but Stella McCartney manages to inject her own sense of self and cool in this collection.

The following photos of some of the collection were taken in the showroom during our writing appointment.

A superb collection. Stella McCartney gave us a glimpse of how much more she is capable of.

Less is more BUT never dull.

( all photos DChen )

visit Stella’s website @ : http://www.stellamccartney.com/int/en/collections/winter-2010/

PARIS – Celine

Douglas — Wed, 07 Oct 2009 00:38:00 +0000

Phoebe Philo’s return to the runway was probably one of the MOST anticipated this season in Paris. In fact… people have been waiting almost a good year since news of her signing on as the designer/creative director of this French fashion house that was created in the 1940’s but who’s ready-to-wear came into existence in the 60’s. Celine is currently owned by LVMH. Ms. Philo’s was last seen at the helm of Chloe during it’s enormous period of success but exited approximately 4 years ago to focus on her family life.

Phoebe Philo presented a collection that was confident, intelligent and the word utilitarian was thrown around quite a bit. She chose to say it like it is…. not just clothes that women will dream about, but actually want to wear. Hence the term “utility chic”, but there was nothing mundane about the collection… it was sportswear in the strongest sense, put together with sophisticated ease ….. simple in its lines but owning a very clear presence.

all photos – DChen

The collection was a study of beige, white, nude and black with the smallest shot of an off-blue. Brief leather dresses, tops and skirts added voltage in a eye pleasing way to the welcome calm of her collection. The silhouettes were spare but delivered a vision that was so much stronger than all the ruffles and volume and prints everywhere else. Ms. Philo chose to insert one single look in a mixed stripe print. This punctuated the level of thought that went into her debut collection for this label.

Phoebe Philo’s message clearly stood apart from much of what has been taking place here in Paris. I guarantee you that it will be the most praised and Celine will be at the top of every retailer’s, as well as, editor’s list for the what’s hot and must have next spring. She has managed to make a mark in both worlds, cause a splash without overfilling the bowl. It left you wanting MORE …