05.24.2010

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Josephus Thimister is a Belgian  designer based in Paris. He has been creatively present in the fashion world since 1997 when he started up his eponymous label and Anna Wintour anointed him one of the top designers of his generation. Josephus has worked with Karl Lagerfeld  and at the House of Jean Patou for the couture collection before he became creative director at Balenciaga prior to Nicolas Ghesquière. He has been in the same role for Genny and also Charles Jourdan. Somewhere amidst all these different jobs, he shuttered his namesake collection. His Thimister label made a tremendous comeback during Paris Couture in January where he showed his couture/ready-to-wear collection to much adulation from the press as well as retailers.

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Thimister  opened the spring.summer 2010 couture shows with his “Bloodshed and Opulence” collection. A sort of a blend of Russian history and present day anti-war message complete with military jackets, cossack coats, knitwear with splatters of red yarn to convey bloodshed. Dire elegance… imperial satins, regal wools, mohair knits, leathers and fur trims lead the charge. The color red was once again the punctuation mark.

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Josephus Thimister self-financed this collection after an 8 year hiatus of showing on the runway. A tremendous show during couture that many regarded as a welcome change because he chose to show a collection that was not all red carpet wear. A sign of things to come? See a slideshow of his complete collection here from January 2010. These sweaters were amongst the strongest from New York  to London to Milan to Paris.

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The photos I took are from  a showroom appointment during the Paris pret-a-porter in March. It’s good to see Josephus back. This time, we hope to stay.

This post is experiencing a first. It’s being written and posted at 39,000 feet. Strangely, for me, airplane cabins are some of the best places to completely relax and think. Thanks to a system called Gogo, I am able to stay connected throughout my flight. Some may say dangerous…. but I’m all for it.

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