Paris – THIMISTER
Josephus Thimister is a Belgian designer based in Paris. He has been creatively present in the fashion world since 1997 when he started up his eponymous label and Anna Wintour anointed him one of the top designers of his generation. Josephus has worked with Karl Lagerfeld and at the House of Jean Patou for the couture collection before he became creative director at Balenciaga prior to Nicolas Ghesquière. He has been in the same role for Genny and also Charles Jourdan. Somewhere amidst all these different jobs, he shuttered his namesake collection. His Thimister label made a tremendous comeback during Paris Couture in January where he showed his couture/ready-to-wear collection to much adulation from the press as well as retailers.
Thimister opened the spring.summer 2010 couture shows with his “Bloodshed and Opulence” collection. A sort of a blend of Russian history and present day anti-war message complete with military jackets, cossack coats, knitwear with splatters of red yarn to convey bloodshed. Dire elegance… imperial satins, regal wools, mohair knits, leathers and fur trims lead the charge. The color red was once again the punctuation mark.
Josephus Thimister self-financed this collection after an 8 year hiatus of showing on the runway. A tremendous show during couture that many regarded as a welcome change because he chose to show a collection that was not all red carpet wear. A sign of things to come? See a slideshow of his complete collection here from January 2010. These sweaters were amongst the strongest from New York to London to Milan to Paris.
The photos I took are from a showroom appointment during the Paris pret-a-porter in March. It’s good to see Josephus back. This time, we hope to stay.
This post is experiencing a first. It’s being written and posted at 39,000 feet. Strangely, for me, airplane cabins are some of the best places to completely relax and think. Thanks to a system called Gogo, I am able to stay connected throughout my flight. Some may say dangerous…. but I’m all for it.
JUNYA WATANABE – f.w 2010
The work of Junya Watanabe has evolved so beautifully over the years. I find myself looking so forward to seeing his collection every season. Daringly, some seasons, his designs have eclipsed those of his mentor, Rei Kawakubo. He has even out-innovated Ms. Kawakubo at times. He is produced under the umbrella of the Comme des Garcons label and Rei Kawakubo had great vision in giving Junya Watanabe his namesake collection in 1993 with her support and production facilities. Not a un-wise business decision, as that adds to her company’s revenues and keeps him as a partner rather than a competitor. A win-win situation.
This f.w 2010 season, Junya Watanabe went to the front line for inspiration. Army-issue at its most beautiful and up-market. Military crossed with Edwardian elegance.
He designed some of most beautiful coats and jackets of this season and many embellished with the most intricate details. The seams of the coat above were too numerous to be counted.
Not to stop short where the hems of the dresses or coats ended, Junya Watanabe also offered us the perfect military boot…on heels. You can be all business but why not do it with a wink….
Dries Van Noten – perfect dream
Now this is the way to open a season in Paris! I am more of a fan than ever of Dries Van Noten and his sensitive vision. A true mixmaster. The blending and layering was perfection and done with ease. He showed his collection in a very grand hall in the Hotel de Ville. The opulent and ornate space with its painted ceilings, gold trims and resplendent chandeliers was such a purposeful contrast to the very straight forward and graceful collection delivered by Mr. Van Noten.
His play of proportion and silhouette was interpreted from the 50’s and 60’s. Of note was the full skirt and how he modernized this 50’s silhouette as well as a few other very recognizable shapes from these decades. The contrast of prim and casual was his goal and it was achieved effortlessly. He shuffled it all together with elements of military, fur, sweat-shirting, prints and cotton utility basics. His contradictions were done so expertly that they appear to be the right look. An exciting start to another season in Paris… and now the Paris calendar has a new leader!
Photos: DChen
