Junya Watanabe – skin brigade
Junya Watanabe’s f.w 2011 collection = perfection. A collection starting with sculpted leather jackets that had impenetrable structure and ending with same leather draped liked jersey. That’s talent. Throw in a few faux furs ( or were they real? ) We’ll find out soon enough in the showroom. This collection was one of Junya’s best.
all photos: Douglas Chen
JUNYA WATANABE – f.w 2010
The work of Junya Watanabe has evolved so beautifully over the years. I find myself looking so forward to seeing his collection every season. Daringly, some seasons, his designs have eclipsed those of his mentor, Rei Kawakubo. He has even out-innovated Ms. Kawakubo at times. He is produced under the umbrella of the Comme des Garcons label and Rei Kawakubo had great vision in giving Junya Watanabe his namesake collection in 1993 with her support and production facilities. Not a un-wise business decision, as that adds to her company’s revenues and keeps him as a partner rather than a competitor. A win-win situation.
This f.w 2010 season, Junya Watanabe went to the front line for inspiration. Army-issue at its most beautiful and up-market. Military crossed with Edwardian elegance.
He designed some of most beautiful coats and jackets of this season and many embellished with the most intricate details. The seams of the coat above were too numerous to be counted.
Not to stop short where the hems of the dresses or coats ended, Junya Watanabe also offered us the perfect military boot…on heels. You can be all business but why not do it with a wink….
PARIS – Junya Watanabe in black in white
Junya Watanabe very graphically expressed himself in his S/S 2010 collection. The collection was a black and white exclamation point in a season of color and beige-y neutrals. Even his show location followed his graphic expression. The technically beautiful facade of the Institut de Monde Arabe located in the 5th arrondissement of Paris is another engineering masterpiece and it’s graphic beauty is other worldly much like Mr. Watanabe’s collection. This building was opened in 1987 and designed by Jean Nouvel. It’s importance was that it was devoted to the relationship of Arab culture within France. It’s southern facade shown above is constructed to resemble the traditional Arab latticework screens realized in glass and steel. Each frame has a diaphragm that opens and closes and regulates light into the building depending on the hour.
all photos – DChen
Even the interior of the basement room where the show was held, with its wide white columns and the mysterious shadow casting lighting, added to the overall vivid effect.
His silhouette was reed thin for the most part. He gave women the perfectly tailored slim pantsuit for spring. When they’ve had enough of the soft and the flowing prints and silks, they will want to reach for the perfect jacket and the perfect pant. His tailoring was superbly strong this season. Slick in solid wool/silks or in graphic patterns and checks, these are the jackets to have.
He added very intricately worked checks of every dimension in tops in jerseys and silks and did his turn with the all important white shirt for next spring.
The effective use of cloth head wraps into sculptural shapes added to the black and white positive / negative dimensions he artfully achieved. The collection was superb and it gave me some of the most beautiful photos of the season. Inoubliable, these images …..
