Comme des Garcons – Rei plays
Rei Kawakubo is playing in her favorite playground filled with half jackets, half coats, knotted washed wool details, asymmetric draping and then some other familiar toys. The freshest part of the collection was the burst of color from outfits that were inset with vibrant vintage scarves.
The finale of the show was a small army of gold jackets in various shapes. An enlightenment of some sort? It continued the playful tone of the collection. Ms. Kawakubo continues to marvel us with her familiar vocabulary and always gives us something new to ponder.
photos above : DChen
above photos : Yannis Vlamos
above photos: DChen
Comme des Garcons s.s 2011 – ” ??? “
I am a devout fan of Rei Kawakubo and her intello take on fashion. I usually especially love when she chooses to march to her own drum just to cause friction and controversy. The Comme des Garcons show on Saturday left me perplexed and thinking. That was two whole days ago and I am still pondering. Is it good to make your public feel stupid? I understand the concept of “dog whistle fashion.” Where only the very few get your message and the trip you’re on. I pride myself on the fact that I can usually be included in this crowd.
The s.s 2011 collection left me scratching my head. I am at a loss of words to even write about it intelligently. She played with great tailoring and one of the favorite colors of the season…white. And then decided since the fashion world is on a white trip…. she drew a big black line through all the white clothing.
She opened the show with beautiful jacket and coats but attached 1 or 2 spares draped from the back. I hope to learn why during our showroom appointment on Wednesday. I will gladly enlighten you as soon as I learn the answer.
The most quizzical part of the show was the finale. Double dresses… connected by fabric. The new twinset? Never go to dinner alone? Answers to come… stay tuned.
All photos DChen.
JUNYA WATANABE – f.w 2010
The work of Junya Watanabe has evolved so beautifully over the years. I find myself looking so forward to seeing his collection every season. Daringly, some seasons, his designs have eclipsed those of his mentor, Rei Kawakubo. He has even out-innovated Ms. Kawakubo at times. He is produced under the umbrella of the Comme des Garcons label and Rei Kawakubo had great vision in giving Junya Watanabe his namesake collection in 1993 with her support and production facilities. Not a un-wise business decision, as that adds to her company’s revenues and keeps him as a partner rather than a competitor. A win-win situation.
This f.w 2010 season, Junya Watanabe went to the front line for inspiration. Army-issue at its most beautiful and up-market. Military crossed with Edwardian elegance.
He designed some of most beautiful coats and jackets of this season and many embellished with the most intricate details. The seams of the coat above were too numerous to be counted.
Not to stop short where the hems of the dresses or coats ended, Junya Watanabe also offered us the perfect military boot…on heels. You can be all business but why not do it with a wink….
