PARIS – Celine
Phoebe Philo’s return to the runway was probably one of the MOST anticipated this season in Paris. In fact… people have been waiting almost a good year since news of her signing on as the designer/creative director of this French fashion house that was created in the 1940’s but who’s ready-to-wear came into existence in the 60’s. Celine is currently owned by LVMH. Ms. Philo’s was last seen at the helm of Chloe during it’s enormous period of success but exited approximately 4 years ago to focus on her family life.
Phoebe Philo presented a collection that was confident, intelligent and the word utilitarian was thrown around quite a bit. She chose to say it like it is…. not just clothes that women will dream about, but actually want to wear. Hence the term “utility chic”, but there was nothing mundane about the collection… it was sportswear in the strongest sense, put together with sophisticated ease ….. simple in its lines but owning a very clear presence.
all photos – DChen
The collection was a study of beige, white, nude and black with the smallest shot of an off-blue. Brief leather dresses, tops and skirts added voltage in a eye pleasing way to the welcome calm of her collection. The silhouettes were spare but delivered a vision that was so much stronger than all the ruffles and volume and prints everywhere else. Ms. Philo chose to insert one single look in a mixed stripe print. This punctuated the level of thought that went into her debut collection for this label.
Phoebe Philo’s message clearly stood apart from much of what has been taking place here in Paris. I guarantee you that it will be the most praised and Celine will be at the top of every retailer’s, as well as, editor’s list for the what’s hot and must have next spring. She has managed to make a mark in both worlds, cause a splash without overfilling the bowl. It left you wanting MORE …
