PARIS – Yohji Yamamoto
It was 8:30 pm Friday evening and the fashion gang found themselves outside on the streets at 155 rue Saint Martin in front of the Paris showroom of Yohji Yamamoto. Like many designers, the show was taking place in a much more scaled down, intimate locale. The retailers and the press squeezed in through the small entrance only to find themselves faced with the challenge of the very tight seating arrangements. Never one to complain, I happily found my seat and prepared for the 30 minute sit for the show to begin….
all photos-DChen
Mr. Yamamoto gave us a very well edited 32 look show that incorporated all the elements he loves. Beautiful jackets, romantic white shirts, long elegant skirts… the pleasant surprise was the fresh addition of the short skirt and a bit more skin. Nothing vulgar…. never chez Yohji. just a bit more shown at the neck and the shoulder and of course legs, legs, legs. His square cut necklines and off the shoulder looks were sensual but done with restraint. The Yamamoto woman has two faces for s/s 2010… the usual elegantly, cerebral side and a side that is hip, present and ready to roll. The latter was evident in an off the shoulder double breasted jacket worn with a mini and a brief leather motorcycle jacket paired with a side pleated leather mini strode confidently down the runway. The hair and makeup all a slight blur as you would imagine she would look if she had just taken a spin astride a Harley. 
Again, just when you think Mr. Yamamoto has shown you all he could, out floats down the runway a long duster coat which appeared to be laser distressed cut to resemble lace. I didn’t get a great photo of this beautiful creation as I think I was momentarily paralyzed by its beauty. ( center of image below )
This collection broke away from the usual serene, intello and very precise orchestration of Mr. Yamamoto’s usual shows… this one had VERVE. The medley of familiar old songs …rockin’ oldies to old favorites, had the crowd’s mood boosted way beyond the very small confines of 155 rue Saint Martin.
