Douglas Chen

Crossing the Divide – Jil Sander

Douglas — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 08:19:34 +0000

There are still f.w 2010 collections to write about from this past February and March but May and June came along and Resort and pre-collections for Spring 2011 sprang out of no where. I had the great opportunity to cross the divide from retail to wholesale and work in the showrooms of both Jil Sander in Milan and New York and then in Paris for Lanvin. Both incredibly enriching experiences.

Jil Sander, under the creative direction of Raf Simons, combined their market period for their Cruise and pre-Spring 2011 collections. Both were shown at the same time and if that wasn’t enough…. the company introduced the new Jil Sander Navy collection. A full on separate collection the company is targeting as a brand extension…. not a diffusion or secondary line. The target client is the Jil Sander woman and definitely provides for her younger sibling or daughter as well. The collection is skewed more towards her weekend and casual needs. The collection will deliver to your nearest store beginning in December 2010. It will be merchandised next to the collection in all stores that carry Jil Sander. The label will be the Jil Sander logo label but instead of the white background, it will be on…. NAVY. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos but here is a great write up on STYLE.COM and a photo or two on the newest offering from the world of Jil Sander. The collection is comprised of three deliveries and there are major stories of colors and prints… not the usual find at Jil Sander. All things do evolve.

Jil Sander Navy

The collection is under the creative directorship of Raf Simons and there is a separate design team dedicated to just this new label. Production for Jil Sander Navy will be under the roofs of the Italian manufacturer GIBO. ( producers of John Galliano, Rochas, etc ) The presentation to the buyers worldwide were held in the Milan showroom on Piazza Castello and then also in Soho in NYC where the Jil Sander store was closed to house the 3 collections for the US market appointments. Working with the team at Jil Sander was a great experience. I have bought this collection for both Bergdorf Goodman and Linda Dresner for the past 15 years in some capacity or another. So it was really interesting to learn the collection from behind the scenes. Working with stores on the other side of the table was particularly rewarding as I was able to use my experience as buyer and knowledge of the collection, both past and present, to help shape their buys. Full circle.

GREGORY PARKINSON

Douglas — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 08:13:29 +0000

In the fashion world, there are many designers who contribute to the billions this industry rings up annually. The creative unsung heros who have been in business and crank out collection after collection, year after year, but do not receive near the attention nor the spotlight as their famous big name label peers.

These are all looks currently in store from s.s 2010.

Gregory Parkinson is one of these great designers. Born in England, Gregory has been based in Los Angeles, New York and then back in LA again. He is home there and this is where he creatively thrives, designing his distinctive collection season after season alongside his business partner, Therese Tran.

Gregory’s strong suit is his incredibly keen sense of color, his ability to mix layers of different prints and fabrics and make it work harmoniously in a single look. His incredible knack for hand dying fabrics to achieve the most unique finishes and colors for his clothes is a true gift. He loves luxury but sneers at things that are too precious. He wants his customers to be able to feel comfortable in his clothes any day, anytime….

These looks below are from his fall.winter 2010 collection, delivering soon.

He’s one of the most exceptional and imaginative designers working today. Linda Dresner and Barneys are two of the first stores who started with Gregory Parkinson much over a decade ago and have had continuous and long standing relationships with him. He is carried by many of the best stores worldwide. On Linda Dresner’s website, there is a great video of a recent trunk show Gregory did at Linda’s Birmingham, Michigan store. He’s the tall, handsome one wearing stripes….working with his adoring fans. ( On Linda’s website, click the video tab and find Gregory Parkinson on the pop-up )

He hasn’t gone completely unheralded… Gregory had a great editorial shot in the March 2010 issue of Vogue. Credit where credit is due!

Paris – THIMISTER

Douglas — Mon, 24 May 2010 06:31:54 +0000

Josephus Thimister is a Belgian designer based in Paris. He has been creatively present in the fashion world since 1997 when he started up his eponymous label and Anna Wintour anointed him one of the top designers of his generation. Josephus has worked with Karl Lagerfeld and at the House of Jean Patou for the couture collection before he became creative director at Balenciaga prior to Nicolas Ghesquière. He has been in the same role for Genny and also Charles Jourdan. Somewhere amidst all these different jobs, he shuttered his namesake collection. His Thimister label made a tremendous comeback during Paris Couture in January where he showed his couture/ready-to-wear collection to much adulation from the press as well as retailers.

Thimister opened the spring.summer 2010 couture shows with his “Bloodshed and Opulence” collection. A sort of a blend of Russian history and present day anti-war message complete with military jackets, cossack coats, knitwear with splatters of red yarn to convey bloodshed. Dire elegance… imperial satins, regal wools, mohair knits, leathers and fur trims lead the charge. The color red was once again the punctuation mark.

Josephus Thimister self-financed this collection after an 8 year hiatus of showing on the runway. A tremendous show during couture that many regarded as a welcome change because he chose to show a collection that was not all red carpet wear. A sign of things to come? See a slideshow of his complete collection here from January 2010. These sweaters were amongst the strongest from New York to London to Milan to Paris.

The photos I took are from a showroom appointment during the Paris pret-a-porter in March. It’s good to see Josephus back. This time, we hope to stay.

This post is experiencing a first. It’s being written and posted at 39,000 feet. Strangely, for me, airplane cabins are some of the best places to completely relax and think. Thanks to a system called Gogo, I am able to stay connected throughout my flight. Some may say dangerous…. but I’m all for it.

Givenchy – Riccardo Tisci

Douglas — Mon, 17 May 2010 20:27:13 +0000

Riccardo Tisci, designer and creative director for Givenchy women’s and men’s collection, is of Italian descent and has been employed by the LVMH group since 2005 to breathe life into the house that Hubert Givenchy established in 1952. John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julian MacDonald are the well known predecessors of Riccardo Tisci since Mr. Givenchy retired in 1995. Tisci has a notable dark side when it comes to design and his collections. Part goth, part rock, part remembrance of Hubert Givenchy’s work. He has added a fresh and needed sting to the House of Givenchy.

Fall.Winter 2010 also nudged Mr. Tisci to the less is more side of the fashion divide. A interestingly less fussy collection but filled with strong pieces and a palette he explained as the colors of the Bauhaus movement. Dense wools, neoprene, patterned knits were constants throughout the collection, but it was his strong dose of lace used in the most modern way possible that set the higher tone. His use of nudes and whites alongside a predominantly black lineup was strongly punctuated with a red so strong that you felt the heat of the clothes as they strode by on the winding runway. The red was decadent. If a single color could provide a sense of heightened pleasure and make the heart beat just a bit faster, Riccardo Tisci masterfully harnessed this sensual energy.

This crystal encrusted satin box clutch went perfectly with the severe and linear looks.

And the last word on Givenchy… Riccardo Tisci has just shot his fall.winter 2010 advertising campaign and he has used a transgender model. A very first…. Lea, his longtime assistant, is now trailblazing and will be featured alongside nine other models in the ad spreads.

All photographs – D Chen

Paris – A Priori The

Douglas — Wed, 12 May 2010 19:23:59 +0000

While we’re on the matter of breaks and food in Paris… another great stop is hidden in the Galerie Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement ( 4, rue des Petits Champs ). The name of the tea salon is À Priori Thé ( actual address inside the arcade is 35 Galerie Vivienne ). Another well secluded, quiet haven but it is quite popular with the locals so it is often packed for lunch and tea in the afternoon. We stumbled upon this hideaway walking through the Galerie Vivienne from one appointment to another.

The lunch offerings are simple and fresh. The chicken dish above was full of flavor and satisfying. Roasted chicken accompanied by haricots verts, quinoa, spinach and a purée of greens. This was one of the specials of the day. There are plenty of salads to select from as well as desserts. Of course there is a fine selection of teas. There is seating within the salon, but there are also tables out under the beautiful glass ceiling of the passage. A great midday recharge.

Galerie Vivienne

There are some wonderful photos of the Galerie Vivienne on the above link and some interesting historical information. This beautiful shopping arcade built in 1823, is magnificently preserved, still houses beautiful stores and some of the spaces serve as small gallery showrooms during fashion week.

JUNYA WATANABE – f.w 2010

Douglas — Mon, 10 May 2010 14:43:12 +0000

The work of Junya Watanabe has evolved so beautifully over the years. I find myself looking so forward to seeing his collection every season. Daringly, some seasons, his designs have eclipsed those of his mentor, Rei Kawakubo. He has even out-innovated Ms. Kawakubo at times. He is produced under the umbrella of the Comme des Garcons label and Rei Kawakubo had great vision in giving Junya Watanabe his namesake collection in 1993 with her support and production facilities. Not a un-wise business decision, as that adds to her company’s revenues and keeps him as a partner rather than a competitor. A win-win situation.

This f.w 2010 season, Junya Watanabe went to the front line for inspiration. Army-issue at its most beautiful and up-market. Military crossed with Edwardian elegance.

He designed some of most beautiful coats and jackets of this season and many embellished with the most intricate details. The seams of the coat above were too numerous to be counted.

Not to stop short where the hems of the dresses or coats ended, Junya Watanabe also offered us the perfect military boot…on heels. You can be all business but why not do it with a wink….

Paris – Fashion Break

Douglas — Mon, 03 May 2010 11:09:47 +0000

There comes a time when you’re on your way to your 4th appointment of the day and you have 5 more to go… you say to yourself ”I need to sit down for a minute!”

Between our Stella McCartney and our John Galliano apointments, we found ourselves crossing Place Igor Stravinsky in the 4th in front of the Centre Pompidou-Beaubourg. There is an oasis that called to us… and we heeded that call. The CAFE BEAUBOURG which is run by le groupe Costes is a great cafe for a meal or just cafe and dessert. it’s designed by Christian de Portzamparc, a celebrated Parisian architect. The room is contemporary luxe and is a great time out from it all with a nice ambience.

This is what we manage to find on their extensive menu to soothe our weary souls…

Their ENORME PROFITEROLE.

This and the Mont Blanc at ANGELINA on rue de Rivoli in the 1st are two of my favorite things to visit in Paris.

Cafe Beaubourg – 100 rue saint Martin – 4e – Paris

( please note that I finally worked out the website link system and now instead of copy and paste, you can click directly on a highlighted word within the text to access what I have linked such as Cafe Beaubourg, Angelina and Christian de Portzamparc above )

Art in Fashion – Daniela Gregis revisit

Douglas — Fri, 30 Apr 2010 07:24:34 +0000

To emphasize the artistic/artisanal vision of Italian designer Daniela Gregis, a second post is needed to show you her concept for her s.s 2010 presentation decor. Daniela shows her collection in a beautiful space on within the compound of the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio in Milan. The original church, noted for its medieval architecture was built around 386 by Bishop Ambrogio. In the mid 11th century, the Basilica was rebuilt in a Romanesque style on the original site. The skeletal remains of Saint Ambrose is on view in the crypt in his full on bishop finery.

In a 360 degree contrast to the fluorescent light sculpture from her March fall presentation presentation, for her s.s 2010 collection in September, Daniela Gregis strung dried peppers over colorful tubs in the courtyard of one of the many annexes within the grounds of the Basilica . These ropes of peppers were suspended from the vaulted archways along one wall. The simplicity of the ropes of dried peppers and the bold, joyful colors of the tubs mirrors the earthy but luxe hand of Daniela Gregis, pulling out the happy colors from the Liberty prints she used throughout her collection .

You had a sense you were in the countryside and everything around you had slowed down to a pleasant country pace and you could feel the warmth of the sun. A momentary, but very welcome pause, to stop and take a breath and to take in your beautiful surroundings.

It doesn’t stop there. Every season, Daniela presents to each of her clients or visitors a delicious home made butter cookie in the shape of a little man. Each one is wrapped in a square of print fabric from the current collection. This spring season, she tied it all up neatly with a small dried pepper on top. Her ability to charm and draw you into her world is always smile inducing and done with genuine warmth. Grazie Daniela, for the treat and your beautiful personal vision.

Art in Fashion – Celine

Douglas — Mon, 26 Apr 2010 14:08:03 +0000

Dial back a bit to last season, during the s.s 2010 presentations in October 2009, it seems Dan Flavin’s influence was already taking root in the space that Phoebe Philo had chosen to present her debut collection at Celine. After her enormous return to the fashion front of a show last season ( see posting of 7 October 2009 ), the team at Celine had chosen to hold their showroom appointments outside of their corporate headquarters in Paris. They opted on a beautiful, immense apartment in the 16th arrondissement on Avenue Foch. This private domicile, which was larger than many houses, was on the market for sale. A small rent check later it soon became the terrific location scout’s find for the temporary showroom for Celine. This opulent residence has never seen a fluorescent light, I can assure you, as there were chandeliers everywhere. The person who worked along side Ms. Philo to execute the decor worked their magic to add an artistic, contemporary element to the very grandiose, bourgeois, traditional decor. The correlation to the spring collection could not be any clearer. Happen-stance or someone really thought this one up? My money is on the latter. These are real thinkers here. Phoebe Philo and her team are here to leave their mark.

Within the s.s 2010 collection that was crowned as the new modernist collection, the looks were predominantly all solid in shades of nudes, beiges, whites, blacks and a strong blue….. save one single look that was a pattern of mixed stripes… positive and negative… once again. The stripes and the light installations? GENIUS…as I see it.

all photographs – DChen

Art in Fashion – Daniela Gregis

Douglas — Thu, 22 Apr 2010 09:48:33 +0000

Art and fashion, or rather art in fashion, is not such an out there concept.

There exist designers who are more artists.

Daniela Gregis is an Italian designer based in Bergamo, Italy. She is one designer who treats each of her creations as art. From fabric research and development to her presentations to her choice of space when she shows in Milan.

The light sculpture Daniela Gregis installed for her f.w 2010 presentation is definitely influenced by American modernist Dan Flavin. Born in New York in 1933, Flavin challenged himself with the artistic possibilities of commercially available fluorescent lighting. He first conceived of using light as an art form in 1961. Mr. Flavin played with the pattern of light, color and lines created as most sculptures were linear or geometric configurations. What was always of interest to me was how he could break down a wall, room or space by the placement of his light sculptures or even how a simple diagonally mounted fluorescent bulb on a wall in a room can redefine the space completely.

Dan Flavin’s works are included in the collections of the most important museums around the world. One of the most impressive is at the DIA Beacon in upstate New York along the shores of the Hudson Rover.

Daniela uses her light sculpture to define positive and negative space , interspersing pieces of her collection within the installation to create patterns and more positive/negative contrasts. It was tied into the contrasts and patterns she wove into her collection.

Always thoughtful, always beautifully realized.

for images of Dan Flavin’s works:

http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&q=dan+flavin&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=NgfUS4iJA5bC-Qazx-SXDA&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBsQsAQwAA