Portuguese non fashion wonders
It was Sunday when I first landed here in Lisbon. Not very much was open so the probability of having a heart stopping fashion moment was pretty much non existent. Will keep you apprised of any such findings as my stay continues….
Food, however, is never is short supply here. If ever in Portugal, here are three of a number of epicurean wonders one should never miss….
Croquetas de peixe
These lightly fried croquettes made from morue or cod melt in your mouth. ( Taberno do Chiado – Calcada Nove de S. Francisco, 2A - Lisbon )
Bacalhau assado
This is the famous dried and salted cod dish of Portugal. Here it’s nicely oven grilled with sauteed onions and garlic and just a bit of butter. ( Aqui Ha Peixe – Rua da Trindade, 18A - Lisbon )
Queijo de Ovelha
This last one is a delicious cheese made from local Portuguese sheep called Ovelha. ( everywhere )
Azzedine Alaia – Animal Tamer
Azzedine Alaia’s innovative animal pattern knits were the center of his fall collection. What this man can do with a knitting machine is beyond comprehension. The above dress is a knit realized in a panther pattern. He also included salamanders, zebras, alligators and pythons in his menagerie for fall. The shapes were familiar but the animal twist gave the collection bite and nouveauté. There were more offerings in a slim, body hugging sheath this season. It was especially strong in a new, very dense piqué stitch. The collection was perfection…. although he did wait until the 12th of March to begin presenting his collection. He never mounts a full on runway show. He starts with a small, intimate show for selected editors. Many of the fashion flock had to stick around just for Mr. Alaia to open his collection. I started requesting a writing appointment two months ago. The answer was always…”We can’t confirm an appointment yet. Mr. Alaia has not told us when he will be ready.” I received the same response up until a week ago. They announced the start of their showroom schedule 4 days before the 12th of March. It’s like this every season. He’s ready when he’s ready and not a moment sooner. In the end… it’s always worth whatever the wait.
Photo: Stephane Feugere
Milano’s Marcelo Burlon
Marcelo Burlon is the social glue in Milan for the fashion set. This Patagonian transplant is on of the busiest people in Milan right now. He’s a former magazine editor turned social blender. He mixes people, art, fashion, design and music. He is the founder of Pink is Punk parties in Milan. His goal… bringing people from different walks of life together to have fun. Simple as that. He has dj’d parties for many brands and also for fashion shows. He cites Riccardo Tisci as one of his greatest inspirations. Marcelo has also started photographing and making videos of his world. He has his own blog that showcases his beautiful work.
The NY Times T Magazine has done a great video portraying Marcelo Burlon’s life and work. ( video here )
He’s a celebrity in his own right and appears in numerous publications. His reach is going global. In the end he claims in his manifesto that it’s the people he’s most interested in. Looking at his site, you understand why.
Haider Ackermann – Paris f.w 2011
Haider Ackermann is a Colombian born designer who moved to Belgium in 1994 to study at the Royal Academy Antwerp. He presented his first collection in Paris in 2002. He has taken the art of draping to new levels that are now somewhat his signature. Always with a very avant garde twist. He is produced and distributed by the Belgian company BVBA 32, who also is behind a fellow Belgian designers Ann Demeulemeester and Josephus Thimister.
The colors of his fall collection were the most beautiful shades of bordeaux, blues and greens. The best colors on the runway of the season.
Haider has been around but this past week is when his name came more to the forefront. He is rumored to be a contender for the creative director/designer throne at Dior. Not many people know that he interned for John Galliano at the start of his career.
photos : Monica Feudi
Balenciaga – Rockin’ the Hotel Crillon
Nicolas Ghesquiere continues to raise the bar for Paris fashion week with his collection for Balenciaga. He showed, again, at the Hotel Crillon. This time around, he tiled the entire floor of the salle in white. This graphic background was perfect for a collection of prints and controlled draping. He’s the one of the few who can give you elegant, luxurious clothes but not make it looked forced or old. Silk prints and draping??? Ghesquiere has such a steady and controlled hand at executing this that the end result is hyper-chic and ultra-today. A bit of leather trim, great structure, mesh and bold colors give it just enough edge to continue to keep the collection on the most wanted list.
Comme des Garcons – Rei plays
Rei Kawakubo is playing in her favorite playground filled with half jackets, half coats, knotted washed wool details, asymmetric draping and then some other familiar toys. The freshest part of the collection was the burst of color from outfits that were inset with vibrant vintage scarves.
The finale of the show was a small army of gold jackets in various shapes. An enlightenment of some sort? It continued the playful tone of the collection. Ms. Kawakubo continues to marvel us with her familiar vocabulary and always gives us something new to ponder.
photos above : DChen
above photos : Yannis Vlamos
above photos: DChen
CELINE – Phoebe Philo knocks on wood
Phoebe Philo sends out another ace of a fall collection for CELINE at the Tennis Club de Paris this Sunday afternoon way out at the edges of the 16eme.
photos : dchen
Phoebe’s vision is clear and commanding. She continues with her new minimalism but the only way to convey it is simply that she does it in the most maximal way. No holding back on the luxury factor. She piles it on but in not in your face. The color palette was wood inspired and the orange and bordeaux color highlights elevated the mood. Leathers and furs were used in unique new ways. Especially loved the color block fur coat. Phoebe Philo is again at the front of the Paris pack with this outstanding collection.
runway photos : Monica Feudi
Junya Watanabe – skin brigade
Junya Watanabe’s f.w 2011 collection = perfection. A collection starting with sculpted leather jackets that had impenetrable structure and ending with same leather draped liked jersey. That’s talent. Throw in a few faux furs ( or were they real? ) We’ll find out soon enough in the showroom. This collection was one of Junya’s best.
all photos: Douglas Chen
Yohji Yamamoto – odd beauties
No words… just photos… Palais de Tokyo… showtime on invitation was 8:30pm on Friday, 4 March. Actual start time was 8:57pm…. not bad by fashion standards. I was at dinner by 9:35pm.
Yohji’s odd beauties…..
all photos : Douglas Chen
Dries Van Noten – showroom detail
Dries Van Noten’s show was quietly beautiful. I had claimed the dresses to be the strongest part of his collection. This one look was one of my favorites…. and I stand to be corrected. It’s not a dress at all…. it’s the simplest short sleeved tee shirt top in silk with a long a fishtail train skirt in one his original mix of prints for f.w 2011.
Showroom photos : Douglas Chen
