Gabriele Colangelo – Milan s.s 2011
It’s forecasted to not only snow here in Lyon today… but we will also be treated to some sleet and freezing rain ( is there a difference? ). It’s the end of November but we are deep into winter. Friday, it’s promised to dip into the mid 20’s. It’s at times like these that we already start looking forward to Spring. The light changes and I always welcome the return of color…. if not just the color of the sky but that of the clothes to come.
Milan has sprouted a few young designers that the fashion world has taken notice of. Gabriele Colangelo is one of the forerunners of this latest generation of talent. This 35 year old Milanese has designed for Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli and was the creative director of a brand within the Mariella Burani Fashion Group. He launched his own collection in 2008 and the same year won the competition founded by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia, “Who Is On Next.” That brought him international attention and the opportunity to sign a production and distribution deal with Castor srl based in Castellucchio of the Lombardy region in northern Italy. The Picozzi family has produced the renown 6267 collection and currently does production for Gabriele Colangelo, Giles Deacon and Mantu.
Gabriele Colangelo’s s.s 2011 collection captures perfectly the essence of why we long for the light and color of spring when shivering in the grey of winter. He captures lightness in his fabric choices many of which are quite new and technologically in advance. Ombré or degradé, not only in color, but also starting with one fabric and finishing into another. An intelligent designer who is showing us his capacity of being an innovator. His fling with white and pale colors and the well placed print are also well played. I am keeping my eye on Mr. Colangelo. In a very short time, he has shown that he has what it takes to be around for awhile. Talent, intellect, innovation and great production behind him.
All photos – DChen
Here’s a little tidbit in Vogue Italia on Gabriele.
LANVIN @ H&M – Hiver 2010
It’s been well over a month since my last post. Fashion week in Paris wrapped up and as I was finalizing the last of the orders, I took what was left to be done with me and headed to the U.S. on vacation. Since my return to Lyon, I fell into one of those mini writing ruts. I chalk it up to lack of fashion stimulation. THEN…. a major event takes place around the world…. well, major enough to get me moving for a retail outing…..
It’s Tuesday, November 23rd. Here in Lyon, Paris, Madrid, New York, Tokyo, Kuwait, Shanghai, London, Antwerp, Warsaw, Seoul, Glasgow and at least a hundred more locations… Alber Elbaz joined forces with the mighty Swedish retailer H&M and rolled out both a special men’s and women’s collection, Lanvin H&M.
I don’t know about all the other cities, but when I inquired about this auspicious day, I was duly informed that the store would open at 8am this Tuesday and entry into the store would be on a first come first serve bracelet system. First come first serve means you arrive the earliest possible, you wait. You get first dibs on the 31 women’s r-t-w styles and a nice selection of accessories and shoes as well as the 23 men’s r-t-w styles and some manly accessories which include the infamous Alber noeud papillon or bow tie. I am not sure if this was entirely true, but this is a one time thing and there will be no second deliveries or reorders.
I can get as excited about a major fashion tremor as the next fashion person, but because I have my wits about me, I strolled into the store here in Lyon at approximately 1:30pm. The queues were gone outside the store and no one was there to offer me a bracelet for entry. I wouldn’t be needing one at this hour. Fashion tardiness. I walked into the second floor area where they were housing Lanvin Women’s and I understood where all the staff had gone. Here they all were, trying to clean up after the carnage that took place for the past 4 hours or so. I am relieved I wasn’t here earlier.
You often hear that after Stella McCartney and Karl Lagerfeld every last piece was sold in the first 2 hours. Well…. I can personally attest that there might have been some exaggeration, but before my eyes, I witnessed that just about most of it was gone. There were walls that were bare of clothes in the shop they had provided. I cannot lie and say that there were no clothes left… but it appeared to be multiples of the same 5 styles that were left and a smattering of shoes and necklaces. The styles in multiples that remained must have been real duds because everything else was GONE. Literally. The one style that had the most leftover is the one on the mannequin to the right in the above photo. It’s eerily similar to a style from the pre Spring 2011 collection that I just sold in the showroom in Paris this past July. Albeit… the tulle was stiffer… ok, a lot lot lot stiffer and it was a bit too full. It would take up way more space than your dining companions could stand at your next dinner party table or dance floor… but the retail was only 199 euros. ( not even 10% of the original price! ) I love the dress and wonder why the crowd left it behind… too sophisticated? Too expensive? It seems the items that didn’t sell to the piece were the higher ticket items. Those that were closer to the 200 euros mark. There were tee shirts that started for 20-29 euros and it went up from there for dresses, trench coats, skirts, jackets. The collection was predominantly re-dos of the dresses Alber is so known and loved for.
I then headed up to the next floor to the men’s area. The aftermath was not as grim just as I imagined. A quick perusal and a quick sigh… here, too, the best pieces were sold out. Having pre-scouted the offerings on the website beforehand, I knew what I wanted to zero in on. But alas… I was going to go home empty handed. WAIT… what’s that? Out of the corner of my eye, behind 20 of the same patchwork leopard print tee shirts that no man will be wearing in Lyon, I spot a lonesome short, dark blue, 3 button, glenn plaid jacket with black ribbon trim hiding itself.
I grab at the hang tag… IT’S MY SIZE! It’s been sitting here waiting for me. What a stroke of luck that had nothing to do with timing because I was late, late, late by fashionista clocks. It’s also one of my favorite styles I had been eyeing on the website. While I was trying it on… two clients walked up to me and asked where I found it ( I sadly replied that it was the last one on the rack ) and if I was really going to buy it? Of course I was taking it. I didn’t let it go of it the rest of the time I was in the store.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver, Lanvin’s Men’s designer, did an amazing collaboration with H&M. The collections were tight and well priced and very obviously hit the right note with its customer base. The clothes looked great for the price. I am certain that in cities like Paris, New York, London, Kuwait… there were plenty of Lanvin devotees that have never set foot in an H&M until this event. The Lanvin team and H&M even did a special garment bag, hanger and shopping bag for this special day. They truly went the whole route for this joint project.
As far as high profile designers and mass retailers go… why not? It’s usually a one time thing and PR is off the charts for both the designer and mass retailer. It spikes sales in a major way and then it’s over. NEXT! The only two designers that have signed on for a bit more of a longer term stay is Jil Sander at Uniqlo and Olivier Theyskens now at Theory. ( Theory isn’t quite mass but you get what I mean ) I still believe that with these collaborations, luxury remains special as it is meant to be, but for a fleeting moment, a designer can reach further into more people’s closets. Clients who have the same desires and tastes, but because of a little thing like economic boundaries, would never see a Lanvin cocktail dress but in a magazine, has access to it at their price point for a few limited days if not hours. Nothing wrong with that in my opinion.
