Paris – THIMISTER
Josephus Thimister is a Belgian designer based in Paris. He has been creatively present in the fashion world since 1997 when he started up his eponymous label and Anna Wintour anointed him one of the top designers of his generation. Josephus has worked with Karl Lagerfeld and at the House of Jean Patou for the couture collection before he became creative director at Balenciaga prior to Nicolas Ghesquière. He has been in the same role for Genny and also Charles Jourdan. Somewhere amidst all these different jobs, he shuttered his namesake collection. His Thimister label made a tremendous comeback during Paris Couture in January where he showed his couture/ready-to-wear collection to much adulation from the press as well as retailers.
Thimister opened the spring.summer 2010 couture shows with his “Bloodshed and Opulence” collection. A sort of a blend of Russian history and present day anti-war message complete with military jackets, cossack coats, knitwear with splatters of red yarn to convey bloodshed. Dire elegance… imperial satins, regal wools, mohair knits, leathers and fur trims lead the charge. The color red was once again the punctuation mark.
Josephus Thimister self-financed this collection after an 8 year hiatus of showing on the runway. A tremendous show during couture that many regarded as a welcome change because he chose to show a collection that was not all red carpet wear. A sign of things to come? See a slideshow of his complete collection here from January 2010. These sweaters were amongst the strongest from New York to London to Milan to Paris.
The photos I took are from a showroom appointment during the Paris pret-a-porter in March. It’s good to see Josephus back. This time, we hope to stay.
This post is experiencing a first. It’s being written and posted at 39,000 feet. Strangely, for me, airplane cabins are some of the best places to completely relax and think. Thanks to a system called Gogo, I am able to stay connected throughout my flight. Some may say dangerous…. but I’m all for it.
Givenchy – Riccardo Tisci
Riccardo Tisci, designer and creative director for Givenchy women’s and men’s collection, is of Italian descent and has been employed by the LVMH group since 2005 to breathe life into the house that Hubert Givenchy established in 1952. John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julian MacDonald are the well known predecessors of Riccardo Tisci since Mr. Givenchy retired in 1995. Tisci has a notable dark side when it comes to design and his collections. Part goth, part rock, part remembrance of Hubert Givenchy’s work. He has added a fresh and needed sting to the House of Givenchy.
Fall.Winter 2010 also nudged Mr. Tisci to the less is more side of the fashion divide. A interestingly less fussy collection but filled with strong pieces and a palette he explained as the colors of the Bauhaus movement. Dense wools, neoprene, patterned knits were constants throughout the collection, but it was his strong dose of lace used in the most modern way possible that set the higher tone. His use of nudes and whites alongside a predominantly black lineup was strongly punctuated with a red so strong that you felt the heat of the clothes as they strode by on the winding runway. The red was decadent. If a single color could provide a sense of heightened pleasure and make the heart beat just a bit faster, Riccardo Tisci masterfully harnessed this sensual energy.
This crystal encrusted satin box clutch went perfectly with the severe and linear looks.
And the last word on Givenchy… Riccardo Tisci has just shot his fall.winter 2010 advertising campaign and he has used a transgender model. A very first…. Lea, his longtime assistant, is now trailblazing and will be featured alongside nine other models in the ad spreads.
All photographs – D Chen
Paris – A Priori The
While we’re on the matter of breaks and food in Paris… another great stop is hidden in the Galerie Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement ( 4, rue des Petits Champs ). The name of the tea salon is À Priori Thé ( actual address inside the arcade is 35 Galerie Vivienne ). Another well secluded, quiet haven but it is quite popular with the locals so it is often packed for lunch and tea in the afternoon. We stumbled upon this hideaway walking through the Galerie Vivienne from one appointment to another.
The lunch offerings are simple and fresh. The chicken dish above was full of flavor and satisfying. Roasted chicken accompanied by haricots verts, quinoa, spinach and a purée of greens. This was one of the specials of the day. There are plenty of salads to select from as well as desserts. Of course there is a fine selection of teas. There is seating within the salon, but there are also tables out under the beautiful glass ceiling of the passage. A great midday recharge.
There are some wonderful photos of the Galerie Vivienne on the above link and some interesting historical information. This beautiful shopping arcade built in 1823, is magnificently preserved, still houses beautiful stores and some of the spaces serve as small gallery showrooms during fashion week.
JUNYA WATANABE – f.w 2010
The work of Junya Watanabe has evolved so beautifully over the years. I find myself looking so forward to seeing his collection every season. Daringly, some seasons, his designs have eclipsed those of his mentor, Rei Kawakubo. He has even out-innovated Ms. Kawakubo at times. He is produced under the umbrella of the Comme des Garcons label and Rei Kawakubo had great vision in giving Junya Watanabe his namesake collection in 1993 with her support and production facilities. Not a un-wise business decision, as that adds to her company’s revenues and keeps him as a partner rather than a competitor. A win-win situation.
This f.w 2010 season, Junya Watanabe went to the front line for inspiration. Army-issue at its most beautiful and up-market. Military crossed with Edwardian elegance.
He designed some of most beautiful coats and jackets of this season and many embellished with the most intricate details. The seams of the coat above were too numerous to be counted.
Not to stop short where the hems of the dresses or coats ended, Junya Watanabe also offered us the perfect military boot…on heels. You can be all business but why not do it with a wink….
Paris – Fashion Break
There comes a time when you’re on your way to your 4th appointment of the day and you have 5 more to go… you say to yourself ”I need to sit down for a minute!”
Between our Stella McCartney and our John Galliano apointments, we found ourselves crossing Place Igor Stravinsky in the 4th in front of the Centre Pompidou-Beaubourg. There is an oasis that called to us… and we heeded that call. The CAFE BEAUBOURG which is run by le groupe Costes is a great cafe for a meal or just cafe and dessert. it’s designed by Christian de Portzamparc, a celebrated Parisian architect. The room is contemporary luxe and is a great time out from it all with a nice ambience.
This is what we manage to find on their extensive menu to soothe our weary souls…
Their ENORME PROFITEROLE.
This and the Mont Blanc at ANGELINA on rue de Rivoli in the 1st are two of my favorite things to visit in Paris.
Cafe Beaubourg – 100 rue saint Martin – 4e – Paris
( please note that I finally worked out the website link system and now instead of copy and paste, you can click directly on a highlighted word within the text to access what I have linked such as Cafe Beaubourg, Angelina and Christian de Portzamparc above )
